Germany: Christmas markets, mountain climbing, and hitchhiking

What better way to spend finals week than getting into the chrismas spirit in germany? On a relative whim, i decided to join a friend there for a weekend and went on an odyssey from cologne to frankfurt. My flight came in late on thursday, so our real introduction to cologne came on friday morning. Because we wouldnt have much time in the city, we went to some of colognes most prominent sights before the markets opened. Of these, the main attraction was a 515 foot tall 13th century cathedral called the kolner dom. one of very few structures to survive in world War 2, this Gothic cathedral dominates the town. After exploring its church and a crypt, we crossed the rhine river over a bridge flanked by love locks. Traditionally, couples engrave a lock with their names, attach it to the bridge, and throw the key in the river in a sign of unending love or whatever. Of course, my friends and i joked about how many of those couples are now divorced while taking in the gorgeous river views.

Once we recrossed the river, we finally hit 6 of colognes 7 christmas markets. While i've geeked out over the christmas lights of seemingly every city i've visited thus far, Germanys christmas markets truly exemplify everything we treasure about the christmas season. Wooden stands adorned with wreaths and stringed lights sell anything from glass ornaments to souvenirs, sweaters, and teddy bears. However, i was more enchanted by the atmosphere than the products themselves. The smells alternate from baking gingerbread to sugary licorice and fresh bratwurst. Atop the stalls were incredibly cute neon arrangements of reindeer, Santa clauses, and presents. Even the trees were decorated with gifts and elaborate lights. But probably the most heartwarming of all was how the markets unite the entire town. Ferris wheels, carousels, and even ice skating rinks occupy kids while extensive bars and beer gardens entertain the adults. The sense of camraderie predominating as everyone celebrated the festive season together was really magical.

Although christmas markets are generally similar, the content and styles of each is characterized by a unique theme. For instance, one situated on an island offered seafood and nautical souvenirs while the busiest market situated underneath the kolmer dom had a stage as well as crazy cathedral views. The variety kept us transfixed until we left for koblenz, a smaller city also overlooking the rhine. We spent most of that night navigating more christmas markets in that city and stopped into one of their beer gardens.

If friday night was chill, Saturday was an adventure to say the very least. First, we scaled a hill to reach an 1800s fortress that overlooks the town and river. Located in a vast green park, it granted us great aerial views. However, our real reason for visiting the fortress was to take an cable car across the river. For only 4 euro, we got to descend from the fortress, over dark forests and the river, to the other side of town.

From there, we caught a train to sankt goar, which was located only 3 km from our airbnb in nearby patersburg. however, we learned that standing in the 3 km between the train station and our accomodation was what I can only describe as either a huge hill or a small mountain. Reagrdless, we hiked up a bumpy, unlit path along the edge of this huge monstrosity. Despite nearly killing myself every 3 seconds, I really enjoyed voyaging through the forest and getting some wild views of nearby castles nestled in the trees. Finally, we reached our airbnb, where our nice host told us of a market nearby to buy food. Reluctant to rescale the mountain so soon, we decided to look for this place without much luck. Fortunately, a saint of a woman outside her house took pity on us and offered to drive us to another store. Thankfully, one of my friends roommates knew enough german to carry on a very basic conversation while we bought dinner for us and a bottle of wine for our rescuer. In spite of all the complications, Saturday was such a weirdly fun day that I'll never forget.

On sunday came a cruise trip down the rhine river, where we spent two hours enjoying the rhine valley views. Colorful cottages are topped by hulking mountains with foggy forests and Gothic castles. A bit more scenic than a train, that's for sure. Afterward, we voyaged off to frankfurt. Germanys banking capital, frankfurt has a very ultramodern progressive feel, which is evident in its art installations and skyscrapers. We explored this area before heading to the shopping center, which was packed by a Christmas market. I was so captivated by its grandiosity and luxuriousness. The city center was buzzing with people, the stores on either side of the market were dressed with outrageous light displays, and street performers made graffiti art and played panflute. On the same street as this crowd was myZeil, a mall with an actual hole in its front. Needless to say, we checked it out. The hole projects through the whole building and into its staircase, making for a surreal scene.

Myzeil from outside 

The "black hole"

From myzeil, we headed toward the old town, where the "real" christmas market was being held. After stopping at a few cathedrals and markets, we happened upon the Alstadt and i was awestruck by its beauty. Underneath a stunning collection of medieval buildings, a cathedral, and intricate city hall was an unforgettable Christmas market. Around a radiant two story carousel were stalls with hollywood lighting that cooked gingerbread and sold craft beer to hordes of visitors. between the architecture and the vibrant market, wandering through this square felt like walking through a dream. Upon finally leaving, we went to another love locked bridge over the main river so we could see the frankfurt skyline. Dominated by colorfully illuminated ultramodern skyscrapers, it's a sight that inspires.

My trip through germany was hectic and chaotic but definitely put me in the christmas spirit. frankfurt in particular, with its ultramodern progressive feel, grand christmas markets, and vibrant air blew me away. It was a wonderful way to celebrate finals week. Best of all was coming home to Cork, a town that I absolutely can't fathom leaving a week from today.