Thus weekend, i went to belfast with my study abroad program. After a marathon bus voyage, we finally arrived in belfast during late afternoon. Upon checking in, a few friends and i started to explore belfast. As if to remind us that Northern ireland is NOT irish, our first key sight was an imposing mural of King William, situated alongside a street adorned by Union jack flags. After my friends took selfies with King Billy, we happened upon Belfast City Hall, which is a magnificent Georgian estate with imposing memorial statues placed throughout a perfectly manicured lawn. As i discovered while running the next morning, the building is even more breathtaking at sunrise when blue lights still shine under its windows, so much so that I put it on instagram.
After taking a few pictures there, we found ourselves in a cupcake cafe. Though we could have killed a few hours taking in the chill vibes and cinnamon aromas, we instead headed to our programs information session about belfast's...colorful...political situation. Turns out that the mural we saw is by no means unique, as catholic nationalist and Irish protestant armies expressed their belligerence by painting death threats onto the specific walls they controlled. With the signing of a ceasefire agreement in 1998 came significantly toned down murals that are largely focused on global peace. In one catholic area, a huge memorial murals of Bobby sands lies adjacent to one honoring Nelson mandela. In protestant areas, walls that formerly house death threats now simply show homages to King William or to Ulster. Seeing the murals both on screen and in person on sunday made me appreciate just how deeply The Troubles colored the minds and hearts of a generation. 40 foot walls still separate contentious areas and tensions still flare over cultural practices, but Belfast seems to be greatly investing in its future as a unified city
According to our tour guide, one of these investments was the Belfast Giants, Ireland's only ice hockey team. Apparently, the city wanted to unite protestants and catholics through a team and wanted to choose a sport that both sides could appreciate. Perhaps they realized that people needed a new way to release their aggression, so naturally they landed on hockey, the only major sport that allows fighting. Regardless, once I found out they'd be playing at home while I was in belfast, I knew I'd have to get my long overdue hockey fix. Suffice it to say that the experience didn't disappoint. For only 10 pounds, I got a first row seat directly behind the Giants' bench, which gave me a an awesome chance to watch the players and coaches mess around on the bench. Nothing can beat an overtime playoff win over the Blues, but watching the Giants roll to a 6-1 win over the Dundee Stars was a thrilling substitutes. They play the bagpipes before puck drop, cheer when players topple the refs, and seem really interested in the game. Only downside is that a weird amount of Belfast fans love the Bruins.
The Giants game ate into most of my Saturday night, but I got a chance to explore the downtown area some more the next morning. Because this is me, i ventured to the shopping centre to wkndow shop britains most posh brands like jack wills. Then, I checked out the historic buildings such as City Hall, the Scottish Provident, and Royal Courthouse, all of which exude regality and importance. Coming from a country less than 300 years old, I'm always humbled when I think about the centuries of history that have taken place in these places. This provided a nice contrast to a modern artpiece along the waterfront nicknamed "the lady with the thing", in which a woman standing atop the earth holds a halo above her head as an offering. Bent over the river, it's a compelling symbol of peace, hope, and resilience.
As you can tell by the novel I just wrote, I absolutely loved belfast. Its sharply witty people, rich colonial flavor, harrowing but interesting political history, and emerging atmosphere of revitalization all made for an awesome weekend. All this, and it's a hockey town!!!
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